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Monday, May 21, 2012

Start of summer season opens door wide for al fresco dining

Updated: August 4, 2011 4:20PM



A slab of concrete, a patch of grass, umbrella tables rising on high, picnic tables, a touch of class...a smidgen of sass. The age-old trope that Chicago has two seasons — winter and alfresco — is not so far-fetched. Finally, this is the time to get out there and soak it all up. I have assembled what I believe are some of the best and most interesting restaurants to satisfy your outdoor dining fix. No matter where you sit, each of these restaurants offers good food and a good time. Let the sun shine...Have fun. Eat responsibly.

Note: Because of Chicago’s unpredictable weather, call ahead to find out if alfresco is up and running at your favorite spot.

Rarefied Air

The Terrace at Trump Tower, (401 N. Wabash, (312) 588-8600; trumpchicagohotel.com). This urban chic dining venue on the 16th floor allows for a picture-perfect view of the skyline, Chicago’s bridges and the lake. The view is only trumped by the elegant cuisine fashioned by executive chef Frank Brunacci. Creative cocktail program adds to the enjoyment.

The Rooftop at the Wit, (201 N. State, (312) 467-0200; roofonthewit.com). A year-round rooftop lounge on the 27th floor with indoor and outdoor seating. It’s quite a scene: fire pits, live music, lively crowd. Artisanal handcrafted cocktails, snacks, live entertainment, bottle service.

C-View rooftop bar on the 29th floor of the Affinia Hotel, (166 E. Superior, (312) 523-0923; c-houserestaurant.com). Ultra-plush, romantic, great view. This is a splendid place to sip fancy cocktails and nibble on everything from terrines to tacos to artisanal cheeses.
City Scene

Athena, (212 S. Halsted; (312) 655-0000; athenarestaurantchicago.com). A lush, outdoor, landscaped garden and patio with a head-high glass wall to block the wind and tame the sounds of the street. None of which affects the grand view of the city skyline to the east. The menu doesn’t miss a beat when it comes to classic Greek fare. Great place to grab a late-night “snack” of grilled octopus and a shot or two of ouzo (that combo, according to Greek lore, brings health and happiness, so enjoy!).

Henri, (18 S. Michigan, (312) 578-0763; henrichicago.com). Across the street from Millennium Park, Henri is actually more about the excellent food than it is any form of sizzling outdoor dining (it’s basically a sidewalk arrangement), but it’s hard to not partake of chef Dirk Flanigan’s (also of the Gage just next door) renditions of veal sweetbreads, Dover sole, Pissaladiere (French pizza), and plats du jour (bouillabaisse on Friday).

Quartino, (626 N. State, (312) 698-5000; quartinochicago.com). Chef/partner John Coletta serves inspired and exciting Italian food. A special alfresco feature includes an invigorating array of Italian sodas with flavors ranging from apple to watermelon. Tables are set back far enough to enjoy an urban scene, yet without passers-by looking down into your plate.

Coco Pazzo Cafe, (636 N. St. Clair, (312) 664-2777; cocopazzocafe.com). One of my favorites. This indoor/outdoor, canopy scene sizzles into the night (or just go and bask in the sun for a fine lunch). Favorite dishes here include linguine vongole, classic lasagna and the antipasti assortment. The broad menu includes fish, steak and chicken.

Bistronomic, (840 N. Wabash, (312) 944-8400; bistronomic.net). Not the most elaborate alfresco arrangement around (seating for about 30), but with Chef Martial Noguier wielding the whisk, the food is the thing. Fabulous French tartines, roast chicken, seared scallops and one of the best, most varied selection of cheeses in the city.

Frontier, (1072 N. Milwaukee, (773) 772-4322; thefrontierchicago.com). Oh what fun awaits at a 2,500-square-foot beer garden along with a separate patio and seating for 100-plus. Menu highlights include duck tacos, wild boar chops, oysters and lollipop wings. Expansive drink menu features tap and craft beers.

Chicago Cut Steakhouse, (, 300 N. LaSalle, 312-329-1800; chicagocutsteakhouse.com). Its prime location on the Chicago River offers diners an urban experience that is second to none. There is no denying the goodness of the scrumptious dry-aged steaks and the manner in which the kitchen handles classic dishes such as Dover sole and whitefish. Weekend brunch alfresco on a bright and sunny morning is hard to beat.

The Al Fresco Brunch Bunch

Jam, (937 N. Damen, (773) 489-0302; jamrestaurant.com). One of my personal favorites, especially the very lively breakfast scene where I love to chow down on biscuits and gravy, eggs Benedict and omelets. It’s the condiments here — green-apple ketchup, smoked tomato sauce, for example — that make culinary music. Lunch and dinner served, too. Seating for 30 on the side patio, which lies in the shadow of buildings on either side, but that just adds to the allure.

Nana, (3267 S. Halsted, (312) 929-2486; nanaorganic.com). Organic-focused Bridgeport beauty with outdoor seating for 40-plus. Not much greenery, but lots of pizzazz. Brunch, lunch, dinner, it’s all good. Huevos rancheros, biscuits and duck gravy, seasonal dishes are very special (foraged mushroom omelet, for example).

Old Oak Tap, (2109 W. Chicago, (773) 772-0406; theoldoaktap.com). Seating starts inside just this side of the bar and rolls out toward the street and is almost stadium in size. Saturday and Sunday brunch starts at 10 a.m. Apple fritters, French toast, skillets, eggs Benny and more. Great hash browns. Top-notch Cuban sandwich. Breads from Farine Bakery add luster to eats like the “Old Oak Burger.”

The Publican, (837 W. Fulton Market, (312) 733-9555; thepublicanrestaurant.com). Sidewalk cafe with a Sunday brunch (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and a vibe that strums the street. Choose a cocktail, from mimosas to Bloody Marys to start with, followed by delectables such as an omelet with rapini, piquillo peppers and Fontina cheese, or smoked sable fish, ham schnitzel with fried egg or frittata. French-press coffee, too.

Suburban Style

Bella Via Ristorante, (1899 Second Street, Highland Park, (847) 681-8300; bellaviahp.com). Featuring two outdoor seating areas, so choose from the sidewalk in front or at the back of the restaurant where guests are surrounded by ivy-clad walls. Lunch and dinner fare includes pasta (Bolognese to fettucine diavolo), calamari, pizza, chicken Vesuvio.

Carlucci, (1801 W. Butterfield Rd., Downers Grove, (630) 512-0990; carluccirestaurant.com). Spacious and pastoral outdoor dining around the fountain centerpiece that is surrounded by colorful umbrella’d tables. Tranquil yet lively, especially on those days when live entertainment is featured. Pick just about any dish on the menu and you will be dining in the lap of enjoyment. Favorite dishes include burrata, eggplant rolls, rigatoni Bolognese and ossobuco.

Topaz, (780 Village Center Dr., Burr Ridge, (630) 654-1616; topazcafe.com). A cozy outdoor cafe featuring the contemporary American culinary stylings of Executive Chef Ryan Wombacher.

Bistro One West, (1 W. Illinois St., St. Charles, (630) 444-0600; bistro1west.com). Overlooking the Fox River, the scene is electric (the crowd) and eclectic (the cuisine). Steaks, seafood, pasta, swordfish, ribeye steaks.

Maya del Sol, (144 S. Oak Park Ave., Oak Park, (708) 358-9800; mayadelsol.com). Excellent Nuevo Latino cuisine served in an outdoor garden at the back of the main dining rooms. First-rate margaritas go with an extensive menu that includes special dishes such as cochinita de pibil (pork shoulder marinated in spices and served with traditional pickled red onion and black beans with a muy caliente habanero salsa on the side) and ropa vieja with corn cake, and avocado stuffed with crab meat. Nice selection of seviches as well.

Pat Bruno is a local free-lance critic and author. Listen to him talk about food and wine at 6:23 and 10:23 p.m. Tuesdays and 7:53 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays on WBBM-AM (780) News Radio.

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